Fangs and Coughing up Smoke - Fall is coming!

The winds have shifted and it is finally getting cold in Bucharest. The warmth of summer is fading quickly even though people walk the streets in clothing meant for the beach – men in short sleeves and women in dresses without stockings. Everyone wants to cling to the last days of summer fun. As we all know, life tends to change in wintertime so I’ll say “Power to those wearing shorts!” but I’ll stick with my puffy down vest ‘cause I get cold easily.

I have been warned that, with the cooler evenings, one must be careful of the smoky restaurants. Everyone moves inside to beat the cold and brings their cigarette smoking habits with them. My mother, who usually likes to dine at restaurants in Bucharest, hasn’t adjusted to the fact that people are allowed to smoke inside. Though there is a European Union law that requires separation of smoking and non-smoking in restaurants, the smell of smoke will still find you on the non-smoking side. I, on the other hand, am used to the smell because I used to work at an Irish pub where it was common to socialize outside with the smokers. However, that doesn’t mean I am okay with smelling like cigarettes. Cigarettes damage your skin, your hair, your clothes, and… Oh! Your lungs! Honestly, I shouldn’t scold anyone for smoking because I have Romanian friends who do smoke, but I wonder how fashionable it would be to show up at a restaurant with a gas mask. Too Cold War?    

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To jump right into the cold weather, my family has set up a trip this weekend to Brasov and Sinaia, a city and town known for their skiing on the mountains of Southern Carpathians. We’ll also be visiting Vlad Tepes’ castle (Bran Castle), which is about 30 km (about 19 miles) from Brasov. Vlad Tepes is also know as Vlad the Impaler, Prince of Wallachina, and, of course, Dracula! {Vlah vlah vlah!} Though I wanted to see Dracula’s castle during Halloween, I was told there are cemetery activities in Bucharest that are more exciting. *Silent scream*

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To my knowledge, Brasov is similar to Aspen, Colorado (USA) but with a historic flare. There are old historic churches, which display the most iconic gothic, baroque and renaissance architecture, as well as towers, forts, and gates. (You would want towers, forts and gates too if you were next to to Vlad the Impaler’s castle! However that didn’t stop Vlad from impaling 40 merchants…) Although architecture is cool, I’m looking forward to the cable car. It goes to the top of Tampa Mountain where there’s another fortress… Yay… And the site where Vlad impaled the 40 merchants… This is starting to turn into a very dark, depressing trip. Next thing you know I’ll be eating a black cheeseburger.

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Pictures to come. Promise!

From Vlad Tepes' house in Bucharest

Romanian Street Art

In many cities there are creative people who want to make a statement. They might do it through performances (i.e. Improv Everywhere in New York), or through art pieces (i.e. Jeanne-Claude and Christo), or maybe dance (i.e. Step Up Revolution). {Hahaha! to that last one} However, if you are just an anxious amateur then you'll probably stick with graffiti.

Here are some pieces of "statements" that I've found around Bucharest, Romania:

Usually the signs say "Don't Park!", but this one says "Please Park!" (in Romanian, of course)

Even the renovated areas get vandalized immediately.

No building left un-graffitied.

Statues get marked [Day 1 - September 9th]

[Day 2 - September 10th]

Sometimes it looks like someone's sketch-work...

And sometimes you have to wonder if these people are bored while waiting for the train. (This is a metro platform.)

Even though this is a scary looking rabbit, it's actually a local cartoon character. 

People don't care that they make their mark on holy sites. (That's a church on the right.)

Actually I can see why people think it's ok to write on the bridge...

... the sidewalk makes it so easy!!!

This is on an apartment building facing a busy street. 

On a modern building that has yet to sign on new leasers. Hopefully this flower child will give them good luck. 

"School children who commute to"

Pandas! 

A political piece based on the careless use of gasoline

Faces with real emotion... 

... And bewilderment. Just like I am with all the graffiti. 

First Lessons in Romania

I made it to Romania! 

The view from my bedroom at sunset. 

My first couple of hours here has been almost perfect, especially because I have a beautiful view of the city from my bedroom. I have a balcony on the top floor that looks down over old mansions and adorable cafés. The weather has been kind to me so I can sit outside and feel the warm sun on my feet and the cool breeze through my hair. And a cup of espresso is necessary everyday. But as I said, it’s almost perfect. Let me explain… 

First cup of Espresso (ever!). No cream and no sugar needed.

During the last leg of my trip to Bucharest, I had a layover in Frankfurt, Germany and met up with my mom’s friend and 4-year old daughter before boarding a crowded plane. I sat in a row with a young couple. They were definitely in love, but I couldn’t understand a word they said, (I think they were talking in Romanian) and I’m glad for it. Their “puppy love” was disgustingly sweet but I was surprised that I was so tired from the trip that I managed to sleep while they yammered on.

Once we landed in Romania, I walked with my mom’s friend and her daughter to the baggage claim. We hired a porter and he didn’t understand English, but he was very eager to help none-the-less. We grabbed our bags and then met my mom and dad. My mom’s friend parted ways when we hailed our taxis but promised to meet up again.

In the taxi my dad was eager to get me accustomed to everything in Bucharest. The first lesson: communicating with people. Just like the porter, the taxi driver didn’t speak English so we had to communicate in broken English and the bit of Romanian that my parents knew. Although Romanians learn English in school it doesn’t mean that they have a chance to use it. Since I only know English, I am already labeled and possibly targeted for trouble if I am not careful. (I’ll explain more about that later.)

The taxi ride to my parent’s apartment was a great, eye-opening experience about life here in Romania. The taxi driver wove his way through fairly heavy traffic. His brakes were well used and in great working-condition I must say! One second we’re flying through the streets, another second we’re stopped because a car in front of us is trying to park or turn a corner. I’m not at all worried about the type of driving because I took taxis in Beijing and Singapore, where everything is cramped and it’s normal to get within centimeters close to the car next to you. But one thing my father did warn me about is if the taxi does get into a fender-bender be ready for the driver to get into a physical fight.

We make it to my parent’s building, (which they say it’s in the center of the center of Bucharest), the taxi driver drove up onto the sidewalk and parked the car. This is beyond normal; it’s practically a courtesy to park your car on the sidewalks probably because the roads are so narrow. However, as a pedestrian it can be quite a nuisance. My dad explained that Romanians are still very new to the idea of personal ownership of cars. Before the Romanian Revolution in 1989, only communist leaders were able to own cars and banned everyone else from having their own car. {Still looking for a reference so don't quote me on that...} Now that that ban is lifted practically everyone owns a car and there isn’t a whole lot of parking available. So people get inventive with their parking. Somehow it still manages to work out.

Street parking close to the building that holds opera concerts

Street parking in front of La Mama (the first restaurant I ate at in Romania)

I have been here for a couple of days now and I’ve enjoyed the food, the hospitality, and the beautiful weather. I love the journey so far, but I heard about the corruption and crime that bubbles up in the city from time to time. So I’ll be a sponge and observe. The worst thing one can do when traveling is be naïve. I’ll let you know what I’ll find out about Bucharest, Romania.

My Next Chapter

One more day. Just one more day. You can make it... 

I might be in shock still because I continue a routine as if I’m not leaving this town. Yes, I know I will be boarding a plane for Germany and then on to Romania. Yes, I have packed a lot of clothes for all the seasons. Yes, I have notified most of my friends and given last hugs goodbye. And yet my ticket reads one departure flight and nothing else. I’m leaving without a return flight. What am I doing? I’m letting go of any form of expectations and jumping into the unknown.

One of my friend’s relatives kept asking me when I was coming back as if it was unheard of to buy a one-way ticket. I kept repeating the same response: “I don’t know.” And actually I’m okay with that. Life has taken me in so many directions that I truly don’t know what will happen next (be it career, relationships, and even dinner decisions). It may come off as reckless and indecisive (as frustrating as a man at the cash register who doesn’t know what to order), but this is TRAVELING we are talking about. To plan a trip to the smallest detail means that you will miss the beauty of a journey.

My whole life I have been disappointed countless times because the reality never matched my expectations. Some might argue that my expectations are blinded by rose-colored glasses (like the time I thought I could do the Eat Pray Love thing in Italy) or that my dreams were too far-fetched (like the possibility that I would become the CEO of an international development firm). However, I must argue that the reason for the misalignment of expectations to reality is that I tend to have bad timing. I don’t live in a world that goes by the 9-5 work week. I don’t have to drive a car during rush hour. I don’t have obligations set by a spouse or family. I am a free spirit. So when I want to do something with friends I am free to do what I want, but it is rare when they are free to join me. Of which, it hurts a lot when I plan on hanging out with a friend but then they cancel last minute. But putting aside the fact that forgetting or canceling plans last minute is a form of disrespect, I know I need to remind myself that I am in a different place in my life… And it might be time to get new friends.

When you plan a trip you form ideas of what will happen on the plane, once you land, and all the activities you will be doing before you have to board that plane ride back. That is a trip. What I am going to start tomorrow is a journey. I have not planned on places I want to see or people I want to meet up with. I have only packed things that will last me for 4 months at the most. I will have a bit of a safety net through family, but for the most part (spiritually and mentally) I will be on my own.

I’ve actually taken a journey like this before (to Singapore), but I had more time to coordinate and say goodbye. In the end, though, I returned. I did not like the place I was living in and the people were not the kind of people I wanted to be around with for a long time. I had the opportunity to jump on a sailboat and sail around Southeast Asia, prolonging my journey, but I chickened out. I felt defeated when I came back because I know I am a traveler. So now I have a second chance with a couple of adjustments. Romania is not ideal, but it’s a start and it’s exciting! I hope to get a better prospective of the activity that is occurring in Eastern Europe. I want to drink coffee out in snowy weather, the way Europeans do. I can see myself dancing to techno music in a castle, like they do in Germany. I bought booties to look fashionable like the Italians and French. I was told there are bookstores that are humungous like the one in Beauty and the Beast… These are my expectations. Sadly, I believe that they will not come to fruition, so I need to clear my mind of it. I know my future-self will thank me.  

When I leave tomorrow, I’m stepping into a new arena. I don’t know what I will be doing. I don’t know who I will be hanging out with. I don’t know when, or even if I will be returning. All I know is that I’ll be planning as I go. Taking each step with confidence and breathing in a brand-new day. Listening to any traveling advice and waiting for a sign to tell me it’s time to move on. Letting my heart and soul grow stronger with each new experience. And that is the beauty of a journey.